„Wilde Freiheit“ – Karwendel – Project…..finished!

Wilde Freiheit, is the name of the new alpine multi-pitch route in Karwendel. Sebastian and me startet this project in autumn 2013.

Have a look to the older Blog and a video of bolting: https://bennowagner.com/2013/11/15/karwendel-projekt-300m/

This brilliant route goes up the north face of a mountain called Gamsjoch. It’s located in the Ahornboden in Karwendel, a northern region of the alps.

Anmarsch

Anmarsch/ Walking up to Gamsjoch Nordwand. In the background the famous „Ahornboden“ maple tree valley just without leaves.

The route is protected with bolts. But in between them you still get the chance to climb some exciting runouts. The quality of the rock is stunning. The climbing goes up in different styles in often steep rock. In all, the wall bulgs about 20m. So especially in the 6th and 7th pitch you can enjoy the exposed wall in steep terrain.

Benno in the crux of the first pitch.

Benno in the crux of the first pitch.

The crux oft the route is the 5th pitch. This 8a+ pitch is 30m long. Amazing moves. Pumpy first 20m followed by a good rest and than a tricky boulder passage clears the way to the next belay. The following pitches are increadable steep, you climb in overhanging rock, gaining more and more „Luft unterm Arsch“.

Gamsjoch 0172

The amazing exposed hanging belay after the 6th pitch. „Das Sprungbrett- diving board“

Gamsjoch Nordwand, Wilde Freiheit

Gamsjoch Nordwand, Wilde Freiheit

Here is the Topo of this amazing piece of rock:  Wilde Freiheit_TOPO PDF

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Deep Sea Spex

 

One of the most beautiful sea cliff routes I’ve climbed in North Wales: Deep Sea Spex.

 

deep sea spex unten.jpg

the amazing scenery at the cliff

 

I had to wait long time. Most of the time I walked to the cliff and had a look into the route I was disappointed to see the route in wet conditions.

Deep Sea Chock stone.jpg

once  you pulled up on the big hex the climbing starts

 

But it was worth to came to this amazing place again  and again. The first time it was dry I felt in  the middle of the first pitch . The second day I found the route in dry conditions  I managed to climb it.

The style of climbing is amazing, it changes from „head-jamming“, to crimps and wonderful hand jams.

 

Deep Sea oben.jpg

the awesome first pitch of Deep Sea Spex